A Brief History of Jewels
The Craftsmanship of Generations
During 18th Century
The end of the previous century had seen the development of the brilliant-cut with its multiple facets. Diamonds sparkled
as never before and came to dominate jewellery design. Frequently mounted in silver to enhance the stone's white
colour, magnificent sets of diamond jewels were essential for court life. The largest were worn on the bodice,
while smaller ornaments could be scattered over an outfit.
Owing to its high intrinsic value, little diamond jewellery from this period survives. Owners often sold it or re-set the gems into more
fashionable designs.
During 19th Century
The 19th century was a period of huge industrial and social change, but in jewellery design the focus was often on the past.
In the first decades classical styles were popular. This interest in antiquities was stimulated by fresh
archaeological discoveries. Goldsmiths attempted to revive ancient techniques and made jewellery that imitated,
or was in the style of, archaeological jewellery.
There was also an interest in jewels inspired by the Medieval and Renaissance periods. It is a testament to the period's eclectic nature.
Naturalistic jewellery, decorated with clearly recognisable flowers and fruit, was also popular for much of this period. This large spray of assorted flowers has a pin
fastening at the back and would have been worn as a bodice ornament. Some of the diamond flowers are set on springs, which would
increase their sparkle considerably as the wearer moved. Individual flower sprays could be removed and used as hair ornaments.
By the 1850s the delicate early designs had given way to more extravagant and complex compositions of flowers and foliage. At the same time, flowers were used to express love and friendship. The colours in nature were matched by coloured gemstones, and a 'language of flowers' spelt out special messages. In contrast with earlier periods, the more elaborate jewellery was worn almost exclusively by women.
20th Century Onwards
Since 1980s the boundaries of jewellery have been continually redefined. Conventions have been challenged by successive generations of independent jewellers, often educated at art college and immersed in radical ideas.
New technologies and non-precious materials, including plastics, paper and textiles, have overturned the notions of status traditionally implicit in jewellery.
Avant-garde artist-jewellers have explored the interaction of jewellery with the body, pushing the boundaries of scale and wearability to the limits. Jewellery has developed into wearable art. The debate on its relationship to Fine Art continues.